Few places in the United States can eclipse the cool beauty of the Great Lakes in the heat of summer.
We’d planned this road trip for several years in a row, but family obligations stopped us each time. Finally, everything fell into place in the summer of 2018.
Each morning, we’d take a ride on a major bike trail. Each afternoon, we explored historic sites, natural areas, and the rugged beauty of the coastlines of the Great Lakes.
We focused on Northern Michigan: Lake Michigan, Lake Huron, and Lake Superior in the Petoskey Area (just “Below” the Mackinac Straits) and the Upper Peninsula (“Above” the Mackinac Straits) of Michigan.
In 1952, his memoir of the experience was published as the book Above Below, recounting stories of characters he knew on Drummond Island and De Tour.
Since John had never seen the Great Lakes before, we couldn’t call this a homecoming so much as a look into the past coupled with the beauty of the present. We met our own cast of characters along the way.
PLANNING RESOURCES: PetoskeyArea.com | Michigan’s Upper Peninsula | Visit Drummond Island | Visit Manistique | Travel Marquette | Visit Houghton | Keweenaw Peninsula | Copper Harbor | Michigan’s Western Upper Peninsula | Munising Visitor’s Bureau | Mackinac Island Tourism
Articles
Riding the Big Rapids Riverwalk - Along the Muskegon River in Michigan, Big Rapids Riverwalk stretches several miles through the heart of Big Rapids, with scenic views of - you guessed it - river rapids from this linear park that links with the White Pine Trail.
Paddling Petoskey - Paddling along Lake Michigan at Petoskey was a bit intimidating for a Floridian who is used to sandy, not rocky, shores. But the views and clear water made for a fascinating trip.
The Outboard Motorboat Race - The buzzing sound in the distance caught our attention as we pulled into Conway on Michigan’s North Western State Trail. It was a most unusual boat race on Crooked Lake!
Finding Petoskey Stones - Where should you search for Petoskey stones? Petoskey, Michigan, of course! On our explorations by bike of this coastal town, we found our fair share. Here’s where to look and how to make them shine.
Keeper of the Past - At McGulpin Point Lighthouse on the Straits of Mackinac, we unfolded layers of history surrounding not just the site but the docent on duty, Eric Klein, who has a passion for Great Lakes history.
Two Parks, Two Stories - A duo of state parks near Manistique - Palms Book and Fayette - showcases two very different periods of Michigan history in two outstanding natural settings.
Iron Ore Odyssey - Taking on a history-rich segment of Michigan’s Iron Ore Heritage Trail was satisfying as a bike ride and as a cultural immersion. Now if only I’d stayed on the trail...
Mountain Biking Marquette - Opting for a ride at my skill level, I still ended up on quite an adventure on the Noquemanon Trail Network, Marquette’s extensive network of mountain biking trails.
Time for Thimbleberries - Who expected to go foraging for berries in the Keweenaw? Not us! But a thimbleberry margarita led to woodland wanders looking for this tasty fruit.
Chasing Rockets in the Keweenaw - When we got wind of a rocket launch site at the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula, it was time for another off-road adventure.
Tip of the Keweenaw - Mountain biking to the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula means the opportunity to see what remains of the Keweenaw Rocket Range launch site.
A Day in Paradise - It’s just another day in Paradise for us, except we actually are in Paradise, Michigan, an excellent base camp for visiting Taquamenon Falls and Whitefish Point.
The Shores of Whitefish Bay - A chance glance at a road sign on the way to Paradise led us on an unexpected but delightful half day exploration of the shores of Whitefish Bay in Hiawatha National Forest.
Circling Mackinac Island - The ultimate car-free paved bike loop in Michigan, the M-185 on Mackinac Island is worth its challenges to enjoy the beauty and access to trails inside Mackinac Island State Park.
Mission Relaxation - To truly let you unwind, a trip to Mackinac Island needs to be a few days long. Having historic Mission Point Resort as our home base provided us a calm, relaxing stay.
Anishinaabe Shores - On the Mackinac Straits, St. Ignace is known as a ferryboat departure point for Mackinac Island. Walk the North Country Trail through town, and you’ll discover the rich details of its founding and cultures that thrived on these shores.Videos
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Exploring Marquette
Cliffs Shaft Mine Museum
North Country Trail in Michigan
Oden Fish Hatchery
Exploring Drummond Island
Iron Ore Heritage Trail
Lakenenland
Marquette Maritime Museum
Presque Isle Bog Walk
Bond and Agate Falls
Icebreaker Mackinaw
Fayette Historic State Park
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Itinerary
Auburn, Indiana
Grand Rapids Area
DINING
Flat River Grill, Lowell
Crankers, Big Rapids
Biggby Coffee, Big Rapids
LODGING
Holiday Inn Big Rapids
Flat River Grill, Lowell
Crankers, Big Rapids
Biggby Coffee, Big Rapids
LODGING
Holiday Inn Big Rapids
Charlevoix
SHOPPING
Uncle Bills Orchard
Uncle Bills Orchard
Petoskey & Harbor Springs
BIKING – Little Traverse Wheelway
BIKING – North Western State Trail
HIKING – North Country Trail
PADDLING – Lake Michigan
Bay Harbor
Bay View Association
Oden State Fish Hatchery
Outboard Marathon Nationals
Petoskey stone hunting
Spring Lake Park
Top of Michigan Trails Council
BIKING – North Western State Trail
HIKING – North Country Trail
PADDLING – Lake Michigan
Bay Harbor
Bay View Association
Oden State Fish Hatchery
Outboard Marathon Nationals
Petoskey stone hunting
Spring Lake Park
Top of Michigan Trails Council
SHOPPING
Downtown Petoskey
Bahnhof Sport
High Gear
DINING
City Park Grill
JW Filmores
Mim’s Mediterranean Grill
Northwood Family Restaurant
Original Pancake House
Petoskey Brewing
LODGING
Bay Inn
Downtown Petoskey
Bahnhof Sport
High Gear
DINING
City Park Grill
JW Filmores
Mim’s Mediterranean Grill
Northwood Family Restaurant
Original Pancake House
Petoskey Brewing
LODGING
Bay Inn
Mackinaw City
Headlands Intl Dark Sky Park
Heritage Village
Icebreaker Mackinaw Maritime Museum
McGulpin Point
Tunnel of Trees Scenic Drive
Wilderness State Park
Heritage Village
Icebreaker Mackinaw Maritime Museum
McGulpin Point
Tunnel of Trees Scenic Drive
Wilderness State Park
St. Ignace
HIKING – Lake Huron Boardwalk
Museum of Ojibwa Culture
Indian Village
Fort de Buade Museum
St Anthony’s Rock
Chief Wawatam Park
Museum of Ojibwa Culture
Indian Village
Fort de Buade Museum
St Anthony’s Rock
Chief Wawatam Park
De Tour & Drummond Island
BIKING – Maxton Plains
De Tour Roadside Park
De Tour Botanical Gardens
Drummond Island Ferry
Drummond Island Welcome Center
Drummond Island Historical Museum
Big Shoal Bay Beach
De Tour Roadside Park
De Tour Botanical Gardens
Drummond Island Ferry
Drummond Island Welcome Center
Drummond Island Historical Museum
Big Shoal Bay Beach
Naubinway & Engadine
DINING
Farmhouse Restaurant, Gould City
Farmhouse Restaurant, Gould City
Manistique
Manistique Boardwalk
Palms Book State Park (Kitch-iti-tipi)
Garden Peninsula
Fayette Historic State Park
Palms Book State Park (Kitch-iti-tipi)
Garden Peninsula
Fayette Historic State Park
DINING
The Dock
The Dock
Marquette
BIKING – Iron Ore Heritage Trail
BIKING – NTN North 550 Trails
HIKING – Au Train Beach
HIKING – North Country Trail
HIKING – Presque Isle Park
Lakenenland
Marquette Maritime Museum
Michigan Iron Industry Museum
Picnic Island Park
Travel Marquette
BIKING – NTN North 550 Trails
HIKING – Au Train Beach
HIKING – North Country Trail
HIKING – Presque Isle Park
Lakenenland
Marquette Maritime Museum
Michigan Iron Industry Museum
Picnic Island Park
Travel Marquette
SHOPPING
Lakeshore Bike
Quick Stop Bike Shop
Touch of Finland
DINING
Big Boy
Hudson’s Classic Grill & Bar
Vango’s Pizza
LODGING
Cedar Motor Inn
Lakeshore Bike
Quick Stop Bike Shop
Touch of Finland
DINING
Big Boy
Hudson’s Classic Grill & Bar
Vango’s Pizza
LODGING
Cedar Motor Inn
Ishpeming & Negaunee
BIKING – Iron Ore Heritage Trail
HIKING – Jackson Mine
Cliffs Shaft Mine Museum
Canyon Falls, North Country Trail
HIKING – Jackson Mine
Cliffs Shaft Mine Museum
Canyon Falls, North Country Trail
SHOPPING
Da Yoopers Tourist Trap
DINING
Midtown Bakery & Cafe, Negaunee
Ralph’s Italian Deli, Ishpeming
Da Yoopers Tourist Trap
DINING
Midtown Bakery & Cafe, Negaunee
Ralph’s Italian Deli, Ishpeming
Houghton & Hancock
BIKING – Houghton Waterfront Trail
HIKING – Nara Nature Park
A.E. Seaman Mineral Museum
Houghton Waterfront Park
Finlandia University
Finnish American Heritage Center
HIKING – Nara Nature Park
A.E. Seaman Mineral Museum
Houghton Waterfront Park
Finlandia University
Finnish American Heritage Center
SHOPPING
North Wind Books
DINING
The Library Restaurant and Brew Pub
Roy’s Pasties & Bakery
LODGING
Super 8 Lake Shore Drive
North Wind Books
DINING
The Library Restaurant and Brew Pub
Roy’s Pasties & Bakery
LODGING
Super 8 Lake Shore Drive
Keweenaw Peninsula
BIKING – Copper Harbor
BIKING – Keweenaw Rocket Range
HIKING – Estivant Pines
Snow Gauge Park
Bete Grise Preserve / Mendota Lighthouse
Bete Grise Beach
Fort Wilkins State Park
Keweenaw NPS Visitor Center
McClain State Park
BIKING – Keweenaw Rocket Range
HIKING – Estivant Pines
Snow Gauge Park
Bete Grise Preserve / Mendota Lighthouse
Bete Grise Beach
Fort Wilkins State Park
Keweenaw NPS Visitor Center
McClain State Park
SHOPPING
Downtown Calumet
DINING
Carmelitas Southwestern Grill, Calumet
The Mariner North, Copper Harbor
Harbor Haus, Copper Harbor
LODGING
Laurium Manor Inn
Downtown Calumet
DINING
Carmelitas Southwestern Grill, Calumet
The Mariner North, Copper Harbor
Harbor Haus, Copper Harbor
LODGING
Laurium Manor Inn
Ironwood
BIKING – Iron Belle Trail
HIKING – North Country Trail
Hiawatha
Lake Gogebic State Park
Miners Memorial Heritage Park
Ottawa National Forest
Black River Harbor
Black River Scenic Byway
HIKING – North Country Trail
Hiawatha
Lake Gogebic State Park
Miners Memorial Heritage Park
Ottawa National Forest
Black River Harbor
Black River Scenic Byway
Ironwood to Marquette
BIKING – Iron Ore Heritage Trail
HIKING – North Country Trail
Bond Falls
Agate Falls
Alberta Village
Picnic Island Park
HIKING – North Country Trail
Bond Falls
Agate Falls
Alberta Village
Picnic Island Park
SHOPPING
Alberta
DINING
Jerzis 41, Champion
Iron Bay Restaurant, Marquette
LODGING
EconoLodge, Marquette
Alberta
DINING
Jerzis 41, Champion
Iron Bay Restaurant, Marquette
LODGING
EconoLodge, Marquette
Munising to Paradise
HIKING – North Country Trail
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore:
Munising Falls
Sand Point Marsh
U.S. Coast Guard Museum
Miners Falls
Miners Castle
Log Slide
H-58 Scenic Highway
Grand Marais
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore:
Munising Falls
Sand Point Marsh
U.S. Coast Guard Museum
Miners Falls
Miners Castle
Log Slide
H-58 Scenic Highway
Grand Marais
Paradise
HIKING – North Country Trail
Taquamenon Falls State Park
Whitefish Point
Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum
Taquamenon Falls State Park
Whitefish Point
Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum
Sault Ste Marie
HIKING – North Country Trail
Whitefish Bay Scenic Byway
Point Iroquois Lighthouse
Soo Locks Visitor Center
Whitefish Bay Scenic Byway
Point Iroquois Lighthouse
Soo Locks Visitor Center
Mackinac Island
Star Line Ferry
BIKING – M-185 Loop
BIKING – Mackinac Island State Park
HIKING – Lake Shore Nature Trail
HIKING – Browns Brook Nature Trail
Arch Rock, Chimney Rock, Devil’s Kitchen
British Landing Nature Center
Crack-on-the-Island
BIKING – M-185 Loop
BIKING – Mackinac Island State Park
HIKING – Lake Shore Nature Trail
HIKING – Browns Brook Nature Trail
Arch Rock, Chimney Rock, Devil’s Kitchen
British Landing Nature Center
Crack-on-the-Island
SHOPPING
Ryba’s Fudge
Joanne’s Fudge
DINING
Bistro on the Greens, Mission Point
Cannonball Drive Inn
Chianti’s, Mission Point
Grand Hotel Grand Luncheon Buffet
LODGING
Mission Point Resort
Ryba’s Fudge
Joanne’s Fudge
DINING
Bistro on the Greens, Mission Point
Cannonball Drive Inn
Chianti’s, Mission Point
Grand Hotel Grand Luncheon Buffet
LODGING
Mission Point Resort