There were no fences, no signs, to mark where Torres Del Paine National Park ended and the adjacent Dos De Enero Ranch began. Our guide led us into the ranch, owned by his family, to observe a timeless ritual, the castration of a wild stallion.
Penned in this simple way by the Chilean gauchos who performed the task, the horse ran in circles, enraged. The deed was done in the old way, by hand, with much blood. Let out of the pen, the horse ambled away and nibbled on the grass nearby, its fiery spirit extinguished.